Louis Jadot Chambolle-Musigny, Cote de Nuits, France

路易亞都（香波-慕西尼村）紅葡萄酒

點擊次數：8196

I tasted the Jadot 2008 Chambolle-Musigny from tank in approximately 95% finished form, with any changes to consist merely of additional, ameliorative influx of declassified premier cru material. A bright, mouthwatering display of fresh red currant and cherry is tinged by invigorating salt and brown spices, informing a wine of lean but long line that ought to serve admirably at table for the next 4-6 years. Make sure, though – as is the case with so many Pinots of its vintage – to bear in mind this Pinot’s in many ways white wine-like virtues. Jacques Lardiere reported that selection to remove grapes tainted with rot had to be rigorous in both 2007 and 2008, but that the task was more onerous in 2008, and especially in the Cote de Beaune. A substantial share of the triage in the Cote de Nuits, he noted, was for the sake or removing under-ripe berries, and in the end less than one degree of chaptalization took place with any Jadot 2008 or 2007 red. Given the biodynamic methods now employed here, anti-botryticides are anathema, which would, one suspects, have enhanced the challenges presented in both years, but especially in 2007. The best Jadot 2008s – many of which did not finish malo until after the 2009 harvest – possess energy and sheer refreshment, if occasionally accompanied by slightly abrasive tannins and aggressive acids. What’s more, these 2008s are for the most part (by Cote d’Or standards) value-priced. The higher-priced 2007s – about which Lardiere waxed enthusiastic early in their evolution – frequently wanted somewhat for focus; sweetness of fruit; or distinctive personalities, with the exceptions being, sadly for consumers, among the most expensive crus. While Jadot’s Cote de Beaune 2007s were harvested earlier and vinified more cautiously due to their more precarious condition than were the corresponding Cote de Nuits lots, I found worrisome astringency creeping into some of the latter, and not the sort that I expect to dissipate. Fans of Clos des Ursules who maintain a vertical collection should be aware that the team here elected to bottle the small amount of 2007 (which I did not taste) exclusively in magnum. Given the extremely reasonable pricing of Jadot wines in recent years – owned by their importer, they no doubt enjoy a unique degree of flexibility thanks to vertical integration – the many excellent Jadot 2005s (for cellaring) and 2006s that remain in the marketplace are where I would look for some of Burgundy’s best Pinot values. None of the Jadot 2008s were bottled before March, but I re-tasted some of them in late April after they had been bottled, which explains the presence of limited non-parenthetic ratings. The extent of declassification or anticipated declassification in the interest of quality in 2008 spoke volumes about Jadot’s quality-consciousness, but rendered a few of the samples I tasted – even last April –indicative of vintage quality here as a whole, rather only vaguely indicative of the wines that would eventually be bottled under a given village-designated label. For example, I tasted a village Pommard representative of an assemblage of 60 barrels, but into this Lardiere planned to blend no fewer than 20-25 barrels from assorted Pommard premier crus. There will also be a village Beaune for the U.S. market, incidentally, assembled from barrels of premier cru, but also not yet assembled when I tasted.Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490-9300

Bright, tart red fruits are delightfully and somewhat improbably married to an initial creaminess of texture in the Jadot 2006 Chambolle-Musigny, although along with invigoration and fruit pit bitterness in the finish comes a slightly detached scratch of tannin. Like its village-level siblings, this is satisfying in its fruity simplicity, and should be enjoyed over the next several years. Jacques Lardiere testifies that while there was more widespread rot of Pinot Noir in 2007 than in 2006, the latter was more insidious and challenging as it was less evident on the surface of the berries, and often hidden within the grape clusters. That said, he confirmed the observation of many other growers that sorting out under-ripe berries was at least as formidable a task as removing rot. The results here this year speak to the success of Jadot's rigor, and even from the Cote de Beaune there are many wines in this collection that in their sometimes understated, but also often texturally more refined way have nothing to fear from comparison with the 2005s at a similar state. (At ten years of age, it will no doubt be a different matter.) Lardiere claims that the beneficial effects of biodynamic procedures are being felt now in certain wines from vineyards where he began employing them after being impressed by what he took to be their healing efficacy in the aftermath of 2004 hail. No other vintage, he says, comes to mind that compares with this one for its combination of refinement and complexity with youthful accessibility. When pressed, he hazards some comparison to 2000 and 2001, but adds that the best 2006s are better. That their importer has long owned the controlling interest in Jadot may permit them unusual flexibility in pricing for the American market. What's certain is that the suggested retails publicized for their 2006s - most, slightly beneath those of the 2005 vintage - look remarkably low when compared with those reached in the last several years by other top Burgundy producers. A Jadot grand- or premier cru bottling is often priced like other growers' respective premier crus and village wines, rendering this enormous operation a source not only of continued consistently high quality and frequent distinction, but also of rare good value in red Burgundy. (There are several different domaine distinctions for Jadot wines, and of course some - albeit a diminishing number - are based on or incorporate contract fruit or purchased juice. But since the labels all display an easily recognized common Jadot identity, and since Jadot often exercises tight control over or enjoys very long-standing contracts on fruit that informs their negociant business, I have not noted these distinctions as part of each wine's description, but only occasionally - if deemed especially relevant - in the text of my tasting note.)Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490-9300