La Chablisienne Les Lys, Chablis Premier Cru, France

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Revisited from bottle, the 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys confirms its status as one of the high points of the range chez La Chablisienne. Wafting from the glass with scents of citrus oil, crushed shells and white flowers, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a tight-knit, concentrated core, racy acids, and a stony finish.

The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys exhibits notes of crisp green apple and lemon. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, tensile and stony, with a pure, clean profile.

The 2014 Chablis 1Er Cru les Lys has a pretty green apple and fresh pear scented bouquet with subtle flint-like aromas in the background. The palate is crisp and fresh on the entry with fine acidity, quite lively in the mouth with a gentle, citrus-tinged finish. This is a well-crafted Chablis that should present several years of pleasure.

The 2013 Chablis 1er Cru les Lys has a focused, citrus peel and chalk dust-scented bouquet that just needs a little more vigor. The palate is simple, primal and needs more tension, the finish austere and rather lean. This will provide better in more benevolent vintages and La Chablisienne have produced better from other vineyards this year.

The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys comes from 1.8 hectares of vine and spends 15 months in stainless steel and foudres. It has a more reserved and stony bouquet compared to the Vaillons with hints of granite intermingling with fresh Granny Smith apples. The palate is balanced with good acidity, but it seems very primal and straightforward, the grapefruit finish missing a little sparkle. Drink now-2017. La Chablisienne is one of Chablis’ most high-profile cooperatives and a great success story. Founded back in 1923 and still going strong, it is said that they oversee approximately one-quarter of the region’s production, around 300 individual growers. Therefore, just like Georges Duboeuf in Beaujolais or Louis Jadot in the Cote d’Or, it is important that they maintain standards irrespective of high volumes, since their size ensures that they have an ambassadorial role for Chablis, for ordinary punters perhaps seeking to broaden their horizons. In this respect, the wines should not be looked down upon given the showing here. While none of them reached the heady heights of Chablis’ most revered artisans, there was certainly a consistency across the range that when coupled with the volume produced, deserves to be applauded. Importers: Ruby Wines (MA), Opici Wines (NY), Grape Expectations (CA), Brescome Barton (CT)