La Chablisienne Vaudesir, Chablis Grand Cru, France

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La Chablisienne's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir wafts from the glass with a fragrant and expressive bouquet of fresh peach, white flowers, citrus blossom and honey. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, elegant and fine-boned, with a lively line of acidity and a precise, floral finish. This, too, is very true to type.

The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir has a refined bouquet with green apple, nectarine and slate-like aromas, hints of undergrowth coming through with aeration, quite complex and absorbing in style. The palate is rounded on the entry, but the roundness and opulence of this Vaudésir is counterbalanced by the acidity. It is perhaps a little overworked and too phenolic on the finish, but it has the density and substance to age over a decade.

The 2013 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir has one of the Grand Crus more introspective and backward aromatics, unfolding in piecemeal fashion with chalk, citrus lemon and orange-blossom scents, the underlying mineral notes becoming more evident with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very elegant and harmonious in the mouth with some wood contact on the finish just giving it lift. This is a deftly crafted Vaudésir that comes recommended.