Kir-Yianni Estate Petra, Florina, Greece

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The 2009 PETRA is 100% Roditis. Normally a well priced and rather attractive Northern Greek bottling of an indigenous grape, it shows well again in this year, a more difficult vintage for much of Greece. Rather full and penetrating in its youth, relatively speaking, considering that this is a rather delicate grape typically, this is aromatic, clean and beautifully balanced. It is a pleasure to drink at the moment and actually seems a bit mouth-coating as it warms up, lingering more than I thought that it could. Just drink it young. It is always possible these will hold gracefully for a few years, but drinking them as young and fresh as possible is a lot safer. It is great right now. Drink now-2012.Importers: VOS Selections, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 967-6948 and Dionysos Imports, Manassas, Va; tel: (703) 392-7073

This has concentrated flavors of white peach and spice, with a fresh finish that features notes of glazed citrus. Roditis. Drink now. 1,000 cases made, 350 cases imported.??–KM??Region: Greece / Vin de Pays de Florina Select to Add

The 2008 PETRA is made from the indigenous Roditis grape, grown in the winery’s Amyndeon vineyards. Always on the light side, this shows excellent persistence and has a fairly rich texture this year. It is awfully friendly and utterly charming, at least if encountered young. It will be at its best drunk young. It comes in at 13% alcohol. Drink now-2010. Importer: VOS Selections, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 967-6948

The 2007 PETRA is all Roditis from Northwestern Greece, described by the winery as a “delicate” white grape. The body is indeed delicate and the alcohol is only 12%. Not surprisingly, this seems light and bright, reasonably crisp and a bit herbaceous. It does round out a bit with air. Pleasing and charming, it is likely best drunk young, although it may hold a bit longer. You will have to like them a little on the herbaceous side. Drink now-2009. Kir-Yianni was created in 1997, intended to be a premium winery for Boutari, one of Greece’s landmark wine companies. It was named for Boutari’s founder, helped develop its local appellation (Naoussa) and became identified with the Xinomavro grape, one of Greece’s popular native grapes.Importer: VOS Selections, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 967-6948