Feudi di San Gregorio Patrimo Rosso Irpinia IGT, Campania, Italy

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The 2007 Patrimo (Merlot) is a huge, opulent wine that exudes darkness and richness in its super-ripe black fruit. The full-throttle style is a little over the top, but this shows terrific balance through to the multi-dimensional finish. Tar, leather and white flowers add the final shades of complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. Feudi di San Gregorio is one of the leaders in the modern-day Renaissance of Campanian oenology. Readers who want to learn more about the estate's history may want to reference my article 'The Noble Wines of Southern Italy' in Issue 190, which also includes verticals of the estate's flagships Serpico and Taurasi Riserva Piano di Montevergine. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the new release of the Riserva this year. For ease of reference I have included my note on Feudi's Aglianico del Vulture here, although the wine is, of course, from Basilicata.Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

The 2005 Patrimo (Merlot) is truly remarkable for its clarity, definition and balance. This richly-textured wine reveals layers of aromas and flavors that meld seamlessly in an opulent expression of dark fruit, flowers, minerals and subtle tobacco notes that linger on the finish. The 2005 is a fairly restrained style of Patrimo, but it is a vintage that shows that this offering is capable of achieving both elegance and power, something that has rarely been the case in the past. Today the oak remains fairly prominent and in need of bottle age to soften, but the wine is delicious even at this early stage. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020. Feudi di San Gregorio continues to expand its offerings, and at some point it is only natural to wonder if there isn’t some degree of diminishing returns here, particularly after the undistinguished showing of some of the wines in the line-up. In addition to these wines, I also tasted the new range of methode champenoise wines Feudi is making in association with Anselme Selosse. Feudi has created a lot of buzz about these wines, but for now they remain very much a work in progress and have a long way to go before they can compete with Italy’s finest sparkling wines, not to mention those of one of Champagne’s most iconic producers.Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642