Weingut Emmerich Knoll Pfaffenberg Riesling Kabinett, Wachau, Austria

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The Knoll 2010 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett is pungently scented with lemon zest and crushed stone, hints of fennel pollen and iris adding striking allure. Lithe, bright, and irresistibly juicy and saliva-inducing, this 12.5% alcohol Riesling packs amazing energy, with nut oils adding a dimension of richness to complement the torrent of salt-tinged fresh fruit and wafting florality that persist in its finish. It ought to be exciting to follow for a decade. (Bear in mind that many profound early Smaragd bottlings from Knoll – beginning with the 1986s, which were labeled “Honivogl” – weighed in at around 12.5% alcohol and have more than stood the test of time.) “Warmth and wind at the end of October gave Smaragd the extra push, especially for Gruner Veltliner,” notes Emmerich Knoll Senior, and his estate did not begin picking that category until the first week in November. “Up until then, it pretty much counted as settled that we wouldn’t bottle a 2010 Vinothek in either Riesling or Gruner Veltliner, which in fact we did. But I can’t recall when the Smaragd ever had acid levels identical to the Federspiel as happened this year. Not that I’m unhappy about this,” he adds with a laugh. “There have been and will be quite a few vintages in which we would be happy for some of 2010’s acidity.” A portion of the Riesling Federspiel crop was de-acidified as must. Total production was only around half of what Knoll considers normal. None of the Smaragd – collectively, almost unbelievably, representing the heart of one of the finest Knoll collections in memory – was not due to have been bottled until late this summer.Importer: Circo Vino Besenville, IL; tel. (417) 732 4200

The 2007 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett displays a tarter citric edge to it than the other Rieslings in this year’s Knoll collection. The sense of finishing lemon is brighter, the minerality more piquant, but not severe; the wine lean, but not spare. This will be a good choice over the next several years for those who tend to favor the typical style of German Riesling trocken. Like many of their neighbors, the Knolls harvested Federspiel already in late September, but then largely sat out the rains for three weeks before commencing to pick Smaragd. Botrytis-affected clusters were segregated and pressed immediately, and even the entirely healthy portion of the crop was given less skin contact than usual. A few botrytized rows or parcels were left to hang for nobly sweet wine (in a vintage where few Wachauer followed suit) although not from Riesling. I continue to long for the return of a vintage wherein the Knoll Gruner Veltliner outshines their Riesling, as has not happened for some years now. As has once again become the norm here, none of the Smaragd (save for the Muskateller) were bottled before late summer of last year, and my most recent notes are from cask (or occasionally tank).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700