Weingut Emmerich Knoll Ried Kreutles Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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Sticking with the salad green metaphor that seemed singularly appropriate to its Federspiel counterpart, the Knoll 2010 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Kreutles resembles fresh spinach and chard in its combination of crunch with dark, subtly bitter herbacity and rich nuttiness. Full yet firm, vivacious, and persistently juicy, it finishes with peppery bite, tincture of iodine, as well as the aforementioned low-toned piquancy and nuttiness, and ought to be worth following for at least half a dozen years. “Warmth and wind at the end of October gave Smaragd the extra push, especially for Gruner Veltliner,” notes Emmerich Knoll Senior, and his estate did not begin picking that category until the first week in November. “Up until then, it pretty much counted as settled that we wouldn’t bottle a 2010 Vinothek in either Riesling or Gruner Veltliner, which in fact we did. But I can’t recall when the Smaragd ever had acid levels identical to the Federspiel as happened this year. Not that I’m unhappy about this,” he adds with a laugh. “There have been and will be quite a few vintages in which we would be happy for some of 2010’s acidity.” A portion of the Riesling Federspiel crop was de-acidified as must. Total production was only around half of what Knoll considers normal. None of the Smaragd – collectively, almost unbelievably, representing the heart of one of the finest Knoll collections in memory – was not due to have been bottled until late this summer.Importer: Circo Vino Besenville, IL; tel. (417) 732 4200

Superb, rich, fruited wine that has an intense creamy character to go with spice and ripe apples, peach and greengage. It has great elegance, a very stylish character, keeping the richness beautifully in balance. Age this wine for 3–4 years.——R.V.(12/31/2010)—— 93