Weingut Emmerich Knoll Ried Kreutles Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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The 2005 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Kreutles – picked around the first of November, two weeks later than the Federspiel – offers more intense variations on the same themes: high-toned distilled expressions of sage and mint, along with varietally typical snap pea and pepper. It is glossy and rich in the mouth yet cool and primarily herbal in its personality, with honeydew melon and sweet pea lending a luscious juiciness and teaming up with green herbs and pepper for a long, satisfying finish. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700