Domaine Taupenot-Merme Chambolle-Musigny, Cote de Nuits, France

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The 2016 Chambolle-Musigny Village has a tight-knit bouquet, earthier than the Auxey-Duresses with a touch of damp woodland complementing the sultry black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, bright red berry fruit laced with sea salt, leading to quite a precise and sappy finish that has more joie-de-vivre than the aromatics. Given the challenging growing season, this is a great success.

The 2015 Chambolle Musigny offers up a pretty bouquet of cherry, strawberry and orange rind, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample palate with rich tannins and notable grip on the finish. This was quite reserved when I tasted it, so my score may prove conservative.

The 2014 Chambolle-Musigny Villages has a crisp, red cherry and raspberry bouquet infused with a touch of wild mint that gently opens in the glass. The palate is nicely structured with supple tannin, fresh, slightly gamey red berry fruit with an understated, tightly wound finish that will open up after a couple of years in bottle.

The 2013 Chambolle-Musigny Village has a tightly-knit bouquet with strawberry pastille scents emerging from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite sturdy in the mouth with a mixture of black and red fruit on the inward-looking finish. Speaking to Romain Taupenot, I think this was just a bit withdrawn on the day, but it will be fine by the time of bottling.

The 2012 Chambolle-Musigny Village needs to develop more harmony on the nose, but develops some lovely baked red cherry scents mixed with bergamot. The palate is well-balanced with nicely judged acidity and crisp mineralite on the pointed finish. This is fine for a village cru, although I might opt for the Morey Saint Denis, which shows a little more persistency at present. When I visited Domaine Taupenot-Merme in November, some of the samples did not show well since they had been taken too quickly from tank, therefore I re-tasted them with Romain Taupenot in late January, with the exception of his negoce wines that did not have any problems. Importers: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620; Scott Paul Wines, Carlton, OR; tel. (503) 852-7300; J.A.O. Wine Imports, McLean, VA; contact@jaowineimports.com. Also available through John Armit Wines in the UK.