Domaine Ostertag Pinot Gris Barriques, Alsace, France

安德烈酒莊橡木桶灰皮諾干白葡萄酒

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Maritime saline, alkaline, and kelp-like as well as smoky, peaty notes in the nose of Ostertag’s 2009 Pinot Gris Barriques adumbrate a firm through broad palate more mineral- than fruit-dominated, and as such rather at odds with vintage typicity. This lacks the juicy engagement or follow-through of the corresponding 2008, but it would have its uses over the next several years. Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Winter pear, under-ripe peach, cardamom, and fennel in the nose of Ostertag’s 2008 Pinot Gris Barriques segue into a bittersweet, satisfyingly juicy palate suggesting licorice and crisp-edge pear laced with brown spices, toasted almond, and wood smoke, all following in a quite mouth-watering finish. This ought to prove highly adaptable at table over the next 4-6 years. Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Ostertag 2007 Pinot Gris Barriques – a cuvee now labeled to include reference to the vessels in which he has always fermented it – smells spicy and high-toned with suggestions of distilled pit fruits and radish. On the palate, this takes a meaty turn and displays impressive volume, creaminess, and density, yet considerable brightness, finishing persistently carnal and with faint salinity and heat. Andre Ostertag was like most of his region’s best growers very selective about what he chose to bottle in 2006. He is especially enthusiastic about his uncompromisingly intense 2007s and the sense in which the Rieslings resemble a throwback to the moderate must weights and refreshing acidity that was common in Alsace before the string of warm vintages that has been nearly uninterrupted since 1988. I was surprised to find myself as impresses as I was with the 2007 Pinot Gris bottlings here, but Ostertag says it was simply unfair until very recently to compare his results with that grape to those with Riesling, because the vines of the former were too young. They’ve passed 20 years of age now, and that, he opines, is why they can start to show their real potential (and, I would add, stand up to Ostertag’s use of barriques). While I hate to take up space with this matter, readers should be aware that wines from this estate that formerly bore the village name “Epfig” will now merely be coded with the capital letter “E” because of certain limitations that the authorities have now imposed on the use of village designates and the definition of “village level” names. (Frankly, I wouldn’t even want to understand the regulation if I thought it would prove intelligible!)Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524