Domaine Ostertag Pinot Gris Barriques, Alsace, France

安德烈酒莊橡木桶灰皮諾干白葡萄酒

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Maritime saline, alkaline, and kelp-like as well as smoky, peaty notes in the nose of Ostertag’s 2009 Pinot Gris Barriques adumbrate a firm through broad palate more mineral- than fruit-dominated, and as such rather at odds with vintage typicity. This lacks the juicy engagement or follow-through of the corresponding 2008, but it would have its uses over the next several years. Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524