Domaine Leroy Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France

勒樺酒莊（香貝丹特級園）干紅葡萄酒

點擊次數：45370

The 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru continues this cuvée's extraordinary run of success. Unwinding in the glass with rich aromas of plums and berries mingled with orange rind, black truffles, dark chocolate, violets and spices, it's full-bodied, multidimensional and complete, with a deep and layered core, lively acids and a long, resonant finish. This is another monument in the making from Lalou Bize-Leroy.

"Here's the 1955 at last," exclaimed Lalou Bize-Leroy—alluding to the legendary 1955 Maison Leroy Chambertin, the wine she cites as the model for what she aspires to achieve at Domaine Leroy—as we tasted the 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru, and it's hard not to share her enthusiasm. Mingling deep aromas of sweet berries and plums with hints of licorice, peonies, incense and spices, complemented by savory, carnal bass notes, this is a full-bodied, deep and multidimensional wine that's seamless and complete, with a layered core framed by powdery tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, sapid finish. This elegantly muscular and impeccably balanced Chambertin is a wine built for eternity.

The profound 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru wafts from the glass with a deep and carnal bouquet that mingles rich aromas of blackberries and cassis with notions of summer truffles, smoked meats, espresso roast and baking chocolate. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with the most mid-palate volume of any wine in the cellar—its flesh and texture largely concealing an impressively ample chassis of rich, powdery tannins. The finish is long and sapid. This is a decidedly serious Chambertin that will likely gain ground on its 2016 and 2015 siblings with bottle age.

The 2016 Chambertin Grand Cru is a monument for the ages. Wafting from the glass with aromas of dark berries, orange rind, grilled meats, licorice and peony, the wine is full-bodied, broad-shouldered and immensely concentrated, with huge volume and amplitude, deep and multi-dimensional at the core, yet all the while remaining precise, vibrant and ineffably complete. Both the inevitable power and the essential elegance of Chambertin are fully realized in this timeless bottle. Whether this or the 2015 rendition is superior will be the subject for a debate that could last the better part of a century, yet the 2016's obvious stylistic affinity is with the 2010 vintage.

The Domaine Leroy 2015 Chambertin Grand Cru soars from the glass with a profound bouquet of cassis, cherry, raspberry, rose hip, grilled meat, spice and cedar. On the palate, the full extent of this wine's stunning amplitude and depth—and the reserves of energy that lie behind them—defy description. That a wine of such scale and concentration should be so seamless and complete is hard to fathom. The ecstatic commentary scribbled in my notebook concludes with the phrase "essence of wine."