Jean Paul Brun Beaujolais Cuvee Premiere

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Brun’s February-bottled 2010 Beaujolais Cuvee Premiere (from young vines) delivers tart red currant with hints of sage and horseradish. Marginally less ingratiating or infectiously juicy than the corresponding rose, it shares with that wine a rather reductive personality so that despite its being unpretentious in intent and execution, some time in the open bottle or a decanter will enhance its simple virtues. Jean-Paul Brun and his Terres Dorees – for a bit more background on which, consult especially my report in issue 184 – continue to be the source of some of Beaujolais’s most exciting wines and best values. “I’m very content with my 2010s,” remarks Burn, but I suspect most lovers of Beaujolais will express their enthusiasm with less restraint. (Brun’s Pinot Noir, Chardonnay “Vinification Bourguignon,” and Roussanne were all still in the midst of their elevage when I visited with him and were not tasted.)Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191