Calera’s was the first California Viognier I ever fell in love with, years ago. It hasn’t changed much. Still loaded with exotic fruits, it’s an opulent wine that manages to be elegant and charming despite the size. Guavas, nectarines, peaches, lemon mousse, honeysuckle and creme brulee begin to suggest the range of flavor sensations. ——S.H.(6/1/2007)—— 91