The 1993 Barolo from the famed Collina Rionda vineyard is an outstanding example of a traditionally made Barolo that never sees a day in new oak. Although it is barrique-aged, the emphasis is on Nebbiolo's varietal character. The wine reveals an amber edge to its garnet color. The nose offers up celestial aromas of ginger, cinnamon, spice, and sweet, black cherry fruit. Full-bodied, exotic, and dense, with considerable opulence, yet a firm underpinning of tannin, this old style, impeccably made, mouth-coating Barolo requires 2-3 years of aging; it will drink well for 15-18 years.
I suspect readers are in for some exquisite wines from the 1996 and 1997 vintages from Piedmont's most notable guardian of traditional winemaking - Bruno Giacosa. This release includes several wines from the 1996 vintage, but it is also apparent that Giacosa has done reasonably well in the more difficult years of 1995 and 1993.
Leonardo Locasio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
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