Albert Mann Pinot Blanc Auxerrois, Alsace, France

阿伯曼酒莊白皮諾歐塞瓦白葡萄酒

點擊次數：3857

A roughly 70-30 Auxerrois-true Pinot blend as usual, the Mann 2009 Pinot Blanc is juicily laden with honeydew and musk melon, soft in feel, and attractively tinged with herbs and orange zest. Enjoy it over the next 12-18 months. Although Maurice and Jacky Barthelme continued to pick their 2009 Rieslings into October and achieved satisfyingly ripe flavors, they did so without suffering high alcohol or unbalanced sweetness. Unsurprisingly (whether or not verifiably), they implicate the accumulated experience and effects of a biodynamic regimen in these results. Equally importantly, the levels of acidity in their 2009 Rieslings are ample and efficacious. With Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, they were forced to discharge high must weights in the form of almost universally high residual sugar, with attractive if seldom distinguished results. The Mann 2008s are characterized by particularly concentrated and positively efficacious acidity, all of the Rieslings weighing-in at what on paper might look like an excessive 9 grams or more. Not only have the Barthelme brothers been together now for 21 vintages – to me it still seems like yesterday that I “discovered” their 1988s – but they point out that most of their present crew has been together for nearly a decade, which is bound to have been instrumental in their having been able to repeatedly expand into new vineyards without sacrificing the highest standards, not to mention with their enthusiasm still youthful.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The Mann 2008 Pinot Blanc is delightfully scented with fresh sweet corn, almond, and tangerine zest. Succulent and subtly oily yet lively and refreshing, it finishes with saliva-inducing, shrimp shell reduction-like savor familiar from the corresponding Cremant. This fine value should prove deliciously versatile over the next 2-3 years. Having determined that on its own Auxerrois was less impressive than usual in this vintage, the Barthelmes elected to blend all they had into this cuvee rather than bottling their usual Pinot Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes. Although Maurice and Jacky Barthelme continued to pick their 2009 Rieslings into October and achieved satisfyingly ripe flavors, they did so without suffering high alcohol or unbalanced sweetness. Unsurprisingly (whether or not verifiably), they implicate the accumulated experience and effects of a biodynamic regimen in these results. Equally importantly, the levels of acidity in their 2009 Rieslings are ample and efficacious. With Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, they were forced to discharge high must weights in the form of almost universally high residual sugar, with attractive if seldom distinguished results. The Mann 2008s are characterized by particularly concentrated and positively efficacious acidity, all of the Rieslings weighing-in at what on paper might look like an excessive 9 grams or more. Not only have the Barthelme brothers been together now for 21 vintages – to me it still seems like yesterday that I “discovered” their 1988s – but they point out that most of their present crew has been together for nearly a decade, which is bound to have been instrumental in their having been able to repeatedly expand into new vineyards without sacrificing the highest standards, not to mention with their enthusiasm still youthful.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Jacky and Maurice Barthelme’s 2007 Pinot Blanc – a blend of roughly equal parts Auxerrois and true Pinot Blanc – is once again a marvelous reminder of how wonderful and versatile this genre of Alsace wine can be (but nowadays so seldom is). Alluring aromas of fresh apricot, tangerine zest and shrimp shell set the scene for a generous mouthful of pit- and citrus-fruits that strikes a superb balance between refreshment and creaminess of texture. Nor is there any lack of mineral interest here, with subtle saline savory, and chalky suggestions. Enjoy this over the next 18 months. (If this text – and the score – sounds familiar, that is merely a reflection of the consistent quality that accrues to this release!) Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800