Albert Mann Vieilles Vignes Pinot Auxerrois, Alsace, France

阿伯曼維拉歐塞瓦干白葡萄酒

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From a mid-September picking, the 13% alcohol Mann 2009 Pinot Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes displays a cut and brightness uncommon for its cepage and missing from the corresponding Pinot Blanc blend. Juicy orange with its blossoms and zest; melons with the bitterness of its rind; along with high-toned herbal essences inform this lip-smacking, generous, and persistently refreshing Auxerrois that should continue to drink well for at least the next 6-8 years. Although Maurice and Jacky Barthelme continued to pick their 2009 Rieslings into October and achieved satisfyingly ripe flavors, they did so without suffering high alcohol or unbalanced sweetness. Unsurprisingly (whether or not verifiably), they implicate the accumulated experience and effects of a biodynamic regimen in these results. Equally importantly, the levels of acidity in their 2009 Rieslings are ample and efficacious. With Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, they were forced to discharge high must weights in the form of almost universally high residual sugar, with attractive if seldom distinguished results. The Mann 2008s are characterized by particularly concentrated and positively efficacious acidity, all of the Rieslings weighing-in at what on paper might look like an excessive 9 grams or more. Not only have the Barthelme brothers been together now for 21 vintages – to me it still seems like yesterday that I “discovered” their 1988s – but they point out that most of their present crew has been together for nearly a decade, which is bound to have been instrumental in their having been able to repeatedly expand into new vineyards without sacrificing the highest standards, not to mention with their enthusiasm still youthful.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The 2005 Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes leads with caramelized peach, smoke, and brown spices almost as if it had received a dosage of Gewurztraminer. Rich and rounded (in part due to one of its two lots having gone through malo-lactic fermentation), it nevertheless preserves a juicy primary core of fresh fruit and citrus character that were missing from Mann’s regular Pinot Blanc this vintage. Satisfyingly long, with a hint of bitter citrus zest offering counterpoint to its rich fruit, this excellent value is probably best drunk over the coming year.In the nearly two decades since this domaine was consolidated, the Barthelme brothers – Jacky and Maurice – have maintained their position near the forefront of Alsace viticulture, farming a range of relatively far-flung and outstanding vineyards, as well as offering excellent value virtually throughout their range. The Barthelmes are especially enthusiastic about their 2004s – and with good reason – wines whose honeyed richness and generosity of fruit sometimes make for vintage character more recognizable than that of the grape variety. The brothers believe that the strength of 2005 lies in nobly sweet wines (not all of which I have yet tasted). But when asked about what it was like to optimize these vintages, Maurice Barthelme gestured to his increasingly bald head! The brothers are very conscious of the need to promote ripeness while inhibiting sugar-retention and hard at work experimenting with ways (including certain bio-dynamic practices) they think might solve this arguably definitive wine growing dilemma of our time. (Inexplicably, Barthelmes did not sample me on their Riesling from the Rosenberg, and I apologize for having realized this omission too late to remedy it.) The Barthelme brothers have continued a serious passion for Pinot Noir, their parcels in the Hengst having been joined by a tiny plot of forty year old vines in Eguisheim’s Pfersigberg and one recent planting elsewhere. Wines from both of these new plots were promisingly concentrated and fresh-fruited in 2005, although somewhat over-burdened (at least at this early stage) by their respective loads of wood.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800