Abbazia di Novacella-Stiftskellerei Kloster Neustift Lagrein, Alto Adige, Italy

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The 2010 Lagrein bursts from the glass with exuberant dark fruit, licorice, tar and smoke. I would prefer to enjoy the 2010 over the next 1-2 years, while the varietal aromas and flavors maintain their vibrancy. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. The 2010s from Abbazzia di Novacella are mixed. Although there are plenty of excellent choices in this range, some of the wines are less than exciting, including the Pinot Grigio and the Sauvignon. At their best, these wines deliver superb quality for the money.Importer: Abbazia di Novacella, USA, Sausalito, CA; tel. (917) 699-2647

The 2009 Lagrein offers up dark fruit, smoke, tar and scorched earth in a rustic, hearty style for this indigenous red grape. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Importer: Abbazia di Novacella, USA, Sausalito, CA; tel. (917) 699-2647

The 2008 Lagrein (aged in cask) is a soft, harmonious red with beautiful fruit, lovely overall balance and little of the rusticity that typically is found in Lagreins at this level. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. Abbazia di Novacella is an excellent source for wines from Alto Adige loaded with varietal character. The entry-level whites (in the Alsatian-style bottles) are aged in steel. The entry-level reds are largely aged in cask while the wines from the top of the line Praepositus series see French oak.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2007 Lagrein is terrific. This full-bodied, generous red is packed with dark red fruit. A pleasing, soft-textured Lagrein, it is best enjoyed over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. Abbazia di Novacella is located in one of the most breathtakingly beautiful corners of Italy. The estate makes a wide range of wines across different levels of quality, as is the custom in these parts. The single-variety wines (in the Alsatian-style bottles) are aged in steel and made in a fresh style. The high-end Praepositus wines offer greater complexity and structure. I am happy to report that the Praepositus line, the reds in particular, are being made in a far more elegant style than has been the case in the recent past.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The soft, round, dark ruby-colored 1999 Lagrein offers copious quantities of berry fruit, earth, and spice. Acidity and tannin are present, but unobtrusive. Fresh, lively, and spicy, it is meant to be drunk over the near-term. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200