Abbazia di Novacella-Stiftskellerei Kloster Neustift Praepositus Blauburgunder-Pinot Nero Riserva Sudtiroler, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy

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The 2007 Pinot Nero Riserva Praepositus offers up sweet red cherries, spices, flowers and French oak in a rich, New World style. There is wonderful pliancy and expressiveness to the fruit. This mid-weight yet generous Pinot delivers tons of pleasure and elegance. Sweet, refined tannins frame the long finish. This is a gorgeous effort from Abbazia di Novacella. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019. Importer: Abbazia di Novacella, USA, Sausalito, CA; tel. (917) 699-2647

The 2006 Pinot Nero Praepositus reveals greater density and richness than the normal bottling in its black cherries, wild herbs, spices and French oak. The wine spent 12 months in French oak barrels and needs another year or two in bottle to come together, but it is full of potential. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018. Abbazia di Novacella is an excellent source for wines from Alto Adige loaded with varietal character. The entry-level whites (in the Alsatian-style bottles) are aged in steel. The entry-level reds are largely aged in cask while the wines from the top of the line Praepositus series see French oak.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2005 Praepositus Pinot Nero offers up candied cherries, smoke and sweet toasted oak in a fairly large-scaled style of Pinot from Alto Adige. A more enlightened use of French oak allows for greater varietal character to come through and the results are striking. This is simply beautiful. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2013. Abbazia di Novacella is located in one of the most breathtakingly beautiful corners of Italy. The estate makes a wide range of wines across different levels of quality, as is the custom in these parts. The single-variety wines (in the Alsatian-style bottles) are aged in steel and made in a fresh style. The high-end Praepositus wines offer greater complexity and structure. I am happy to report that the Praepositus line, the reds in particular, are being made in a far more elegant style than has been the case in the recent past.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200