Weingut Emmerich Knoll Ried Kreutles Gruner Veltliner Federspiel, Wachau, Austria

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The Knoll 2007 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Kreutles is silkier in texture and exhibits more stuffing than its generic counterpart, but similarly designed for drinking over the next couple of years; features a coolly herbal, soothing palate; and finishes with melon, herb and vegetal but no particular mineral notes. Like many of their neighbors, the Knolls harvested Federspiel already in late September, but then largely sat out the rains for three weeks before commencing to pick Smaragd. Botrytis-affected clusters were segregated and pressed immediately, and even the entirely healthy portion of the crop was given less skin contact than usual. A few botrytized rows or parcels were left to hang for nobly sweet wine (in a vintage where few Wachauer followed suit) although not from Riesling. I continue to long for the return of a vintage wherein the Knoll Gruner Veltliner outshines their Riesling, as has not happened for some years now. As has once again become the norm here, none of the Smaragd (save for the Muskateller) were bottled before late summer of last year, and my most recent notes are from cask (or occasionally tank).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Offers a touch of citrus and yellow fruits. Although there is crispness, the main effect is of a full, generous wine, but one that is not weighted down.——R.V.(5/1/2008)—— 87