The 2009 Pinot Noir Kess-Haak Vineyard presents a dark profile of black cherries, spices and cola all in a forward, fruit-driven style. This, too, shows gorgeous mid palate juiciness and fabulous overall balance. Today it is one of the more approachable 2009s here. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Chad Melville manages the vineyards for his family’s Melville estate and makes the Samsara wines in a small rented facility in Lompoc. The wines are fermented with indigenous yeasts, aged in French oak (0-25% new) and bottled with no fining or filtration. The 2009 saw a fairly high percentage of whole clusters ranging from 50-100%. These are gorgeous, pure wines from an inspired, young producer whose career will be fascinating to follow. All of the Pinots were in bottle at the time of my June visit, while the Grenache and the three Syrahs I tasted were scheduled to be bottled in August.Tel. (805) 331-2292; www.samsarawine.com