Weingut Emmerich Knoll Pfaffenberg Riesling Selection, Wachau, Austria

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From a late-harvested, stony portion of that great site comes Knoll’s 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Selektion, a wine that stopped fermenting with ten or eleven grams of residual sugar and close to 14% alcohol, both of which elements need some more time to integrate into the whole. Aromas of brown spices and pickled watermelon rind lead to a faintly oily-textured palate presence that suggests candied grapefruit and lemon rind and brown spices. The sweetness needs to integrate itself, and I miss any early sense of minerals or mystery, but this is still a lovely and promising wine. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700