Rudi Pichler Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Terrassen, Wachau, Austria

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The 2006 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Terrassen retains the cressy, bright, snappy “green” suggestions of this year’s Federspiel, but fills the mouth with ripe honeydew melon and fresh apple, and finishes with concentrated and convincing, if faintly bitter, notes of spinach, mint, melon rind, and herb, and a cleansing, persistent juiciness. In short, here is a Smaragd that can both dance on the palate and deliver on wine’s first duties to invigorate and slake thirst. I would plan to enjoy it over the next 3-5 years. Rudi Pichler picked and vinified with his usual sensitivity, thereby achieving a surprisingly broad stylistic range, even though the total length of harvest was unusually short. Flowering here just escaped the period of intense June heat that led to a reduced crop at most Wachau addresses.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Very pure, creamy fruit with acidity and green plum flavors. There is a fine, underlying tension that translates into a tight acidity and spice to finish.——R.V.(5/1/2008)—— 88