Dominique Laurent Lavaut Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, France

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Laurent's top 1993s are massively concentrated, huge, intense wines that will require 8-10 years of cellaring. The Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques (from an 80-year old vineyard) is extremely tannic, with layers of beautiful, sweet, pure black-cherry fruit. Full-bodied and intense, this wine will not be ready to drink for a decade; it should last for 20+ years. The Gevrey-Chambertin Estournelles St.-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin Poissenots, Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques, Ruchottes-Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, and Chambertin are all immensely structured, over-sized 1993 red Burgundies that will require considerable patience. Keep in mind that Laurent bottles unfined and unfiltered, so these wines are totally natural expressions of their vineyards, unmanipulated and uncompromised save for Laurent's peculiar elevage of jumping from new oak back to old oak, to new oak again, depending on a particular wine's evolution.A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42843822), various American importers