What would easily pass for a top Hermitage, the 1996 Saint Joseph Les Granits is more elegant and finesse-driven than the Varonniers, and offers an exotic, perfumed style in its blackberry, crushed flowers, raspberry and mineral-laced bouquet. The tannin quality here is first rate, and this medium to full-bodied beauty is fresh, elegant and layered, with terrific length. It’s fully mature, yet drinking brilliantly.