Campolargo Pinot Noir

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The 2004 PINOT NOIR is something you don’t see very often in Portugal—Pinot Noir. The front of the wine, by the way, simply has a logo; only the back indicates that this Tinto is all Pinot Noir. The wine is pale, with little color at this point in its life and a hint of game on the bouquet. It is bright and elegant, typical in style. In flavor, the wine is rather subdued and muted, already throwing off an occasional tertiary note. This is pleasant enough, but it won’t be going anywhere good in the near future. It should hold a few years, but I’d drink it sooner rather than later for best results. Drink now-2011. Campolargo is an attractive estate in Bairrada which often focuses more on international grapes and other Portuguese varieties rather than the traditional Baga, making a Bordeaux blend (Calda Bordaleza) and even a Pinot Noir. They are making pretty good use of those international varieties, producing some interesting wines containing Cabernet Sauvignon in particular. Manuel Campolargo, the owner, presents a large array of wines at different price points, often in big, distinctive bottles with long names. I wasn’t so sure how I felt about this estate from early tastings, but I think they have improved and are going to improve even more. There is always a lot of personality evident here, both in terms of whimsy and wine.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155