Aromatically restrained, the 1998 Gewurztraminer Reserve reveals smoky flower and rose water aromas. This broad, white flower, pear, spice, and potpourri-flavored wine is expressive, and has an appealing intensity to its character. Projected maturity: now-2005. Importer: Seagram Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel; (212) 572-7725.