Bodenstein’s 2004 Riesling Smaragd Steinriegl presents a concentrated aromatic melange of citrus, dried pit fruits, ocean breezes, and pepper. Compact and dense on the palate, this represents an enormously citric, dried fruit concentrate, with underlying notes of malt, toasted rye bread, and wet stone. A rolling block of a finish completes the picture of this almost overwhelmingly intense wine that tasters must – barring a few years’ cellaring – take on its own unrelenting terms. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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