Light on its feet yet with surprising substance, another tasty, winning white from Neil Ellis. Early-on his wines helped introduce South Africa as a serious producing region to unacquainted American enthusiasts. Herb, grass, papaya, and mineral notes are juxtaposed handsomely here. The feel is taut and angular, the finish long, and a screwtop cap again puts him in the forward guard. ——M.M.(4/1/2005)—— 89
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