Long-time cellar master Heinz Bauer sticks to the traditional, cask-matured Pfalz wine virtues and, while the quality of this estate’s wide range of wines is seldom as consistent as one might wish, the best of them are delicious and frequently include amazing values. An excellent example of the latter is the outstanding value offered by their liter bottling of 2004 Ruppertsberger Riesling Kabinett trocken which smells of ripe peaches and toasted grains along with Scheurebe- or Sauvignon-like mint and cassis. This offers brisk palate refreshment with luscious orchard and citrus fruit and an alluringly oily surface slick, leading to a lip-smacking, ear-to-ear finish. Not only don’t you think about its being trocken, you aren’t really asked to think about much of anything: just take a refreshing fruit bath and come back for another dip! Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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