Battenfeld-Spanier Florsheimer Frauenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs

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Fresh apple accented by pungent herbs and piquant citrus rinds in Spanier’s 2011 Florsheimer Frauenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs carry on the palate with the sort of juiciness and salivary gland-engaging savor that was strangely absent from the corresponding Kirchenstuck Grosses Gewachs. Lemon rind and pips along with marjoram and black pepper positively bite and sizzle invigoratingly in the finish, without crossing the line into outright bitterness and without in any way stemming the flow of primary fruit juiciness or tasters’ saliva. This should be worth following for at least 6-8 years. Oliver Spanier (for an account of his methods and still internationally little-known sites, consult especially my issue 185 report) began picking on September 20, 2011 and didn’t finish until November 2 (in his Am Schwarzen Herrgott parcel), an indication of the micro-climatic, topographical and geological diversity among his sites in three communes. That it was necessary to cull botrytis this year is evidenced in an unprecedented set of brilliantly successful nobly sweet wines from this normally trocken-only estate. (Mea Culpa: Somehow, I let Spanier omit pouring me samples of this year’s Eisbach Riesling or his and Gillot’s 2010 CO Riesling – always late-released – without my realizing the omissions and asking that they be remedied.)Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799