Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Beerenauslese, Mosel, Germany

舍費爾格拉齊多普斯特園雷司令逐粒精選甜白葡萄酒

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There are (or at least were) 200 liters of the Schaefer 2009 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Beerenauslese, and I would hope anyone lucky enough to acquire some would wait for 12-15 years before opening the second bottle, safe in the knowledge that the wine will still at that point have more than a quarter-century not to mention yet greater profundity ahead of it. There is a seemingly inexhaustible reservoir of fresh fruit along with a steadily-beating heart of ennobled and goldenly-concentrated berries. Kiwi and quince; distilled herbal essences; candied lemon and grapefruit rind; and nut extracts unite in a blazingly bright yet subtly creamily-textured, never-endingly, head-shakingly fascinating essence of just 7% alcohol. Most of the harvest of 2009 here was accomplished during the second half of October. "We'd actually reckoned with an earlier start," remarks Christophe Schaefer, "but although the grapes looked beautiful, when we tasted them we thought, 'no we really need to – and we can – wait.'" "The grapes were very stable," adds Willi Schaefer, "and when we did get botrytis – encouraged by a bit of October rain – it dried up nicely. And when you get this sort of late botrytis, it can really concentrate already high acids." Furthermore, parcels in Graach had retained their foliage after the one-night cold snap in early October. All of this year's wines remained on their fine lees at least through March, and the Schaefers pointed out that choices about which to bottle at what Pradikat level were usually made only from cask as the wines evolved, since with the exception of late pickings notably influenced by botrytis, the character of fruit was remarkably uniform. Another feature of 2009 that the Schaefers emphasized was high skin-to-juice ratios, something I certainly thought discernable even before they mentioned this. As a result their yields ended up being even lower than they had been anticipated on the basis of eyeballing and measuring the incoming volume of grapes. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300