Schlossgut Diel Scheurebe Spatlese, Nahe, Germany

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Mint, sage, pink grapefruit, white peach and Persian melon scent and lusciously inform the Diel 2009 Scheurebe Spatlese, a more subtle but even more exciting rendition of this grape than last year’s. Creamy yet almost endlessly refreshing, this elegant, succulent, seductive Scheu moves right up into the Muller-Catoir echelon of quality. Pungent nips of grapefruit rind, sage, and ginger add invigoration. At only 7.5% alcohol, this is feather-light and unapologetically sweet, but represents a really refined, designer-dressed expression of Dr. Scheu’s 94 year-old crossing. I’m betting it will be worth following for at least 15 years. Caroline Diel’s 2009 collection is noteworthy not only for a range of outstanding Riesling such as has long been anticipated (though seldom bettered) at this estate, but also for a set of wines from the Pinot family – all, incidentally, now labeled with French rather than German names for their varieties – that in my estimation mark a significant up-tick in quality. That this estate has been famous in Germany for its work with Pinots ever since Armin Diel assumed charge in 1987 and began barrique vinification, I am of course well aware. But only in recent years have I witnessed tendencies to restrain the influence of new wood and to encourage real subtlety, which seem to me prerequisites for achieving with these varieties anything remotely approaching the class of Schlossgut Diel’s Rieslings. The 2009 Pinots were harvested in mid-October and most of the Rieslings in the two weeks following. The superb botrytis selections were all picked-out ahead of even the Pinots.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300