The dark-colored and highly-impressive 1996 Reserve Pinot Noir (made from the estate's vineyards as well as grapes purchased from the Canary Hill, Seven Springs, and Arcus vineyards) has a blackberry and cassis-scented nose. This concentrated, medium-to-full-bodied, silky, and deeply flavorful offering is packed with sweet black fruits and loads of wood spices. The use of new oak is masterful! It is an outstanding wine that is delicious, yet should only get better over the next few years. Drink it between 1999 and 2005.
Cristom was operating on all cylinders in 1996. I tasted the estate's four Pinots three times (once at the winery, and twice in Washington, DC) and loved them on each. Paul Gerrie, Cristom's owner, and Steve Doerner, its winemaker, are committed to crafting Burgundian-styled wines with finesse and sweet, well-ripened fruit. Neither is a fan of what they referred to as "the over-powering Burgundies now in vogue", preferring to make their wines in what they define as a classical style. They tend to utilize 50% whole clusters for their indigenous yeast-driven alcoholic fermentations. If it is a particularly cool vintage in which the stems are unripe, the percentage of stems is reduced to 30%.
Tel. (503) 375-3068. Bravo!