The irrepressible Randall Grahm has produced four intriguing red wines. I believe the 1995 Old Telegram is Grahm's finest effort under this label in a decade. The color is a dark ruby/purple, and the wine displays an intensely fragrant nose of jammy black raspberries and spice. In the mouth, it is rich, medium to full-bodied, and gorgeously pure, with admirable layers of flavor and extract. This is a high class, young, expansively-flavored Mourvedre that should age effortlessly for a decade or more. Impressive! Tel. (408) 425-3625
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