Randall Grahm's newest releases appear to be the most impressive wines he has produced in years. One never knows what to expect from Bonny Doon Vineyard, but that's what makes it fun. For bargain hunters, there is a bevy of top selections that please both the palate and the purse. I thought the 1991 Old Telegram to be the finest Grahm has made since his debut release of this wine. Made from 100% Mourvedre, and, according to Grahm, picked at riper sugars and with more bleeding of the tanks to increase the concentration, this opaque ruby/purple-colored wine exhibits a superb nose of red and black fruits, leather, spice, and subtle wood. Full-bodied and super-concentrated yet supple, expansive, and chewy, I was turned on by its sumptuousness, as well as its potential to age gracefully for 7-8 years.
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