Cantina Terlano-Kellerei Terlan Classico Weissburgunder - Pinot Bianco Alto Adige, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy

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The 2006 Pinot Bianco is perhaps a little less aromatically expressive than the Pinot Grigio, yet it offers notable energy on the palate in a more full-bodied style, with plenty of clean, focused fruit supported by the estate’s hallmark mineral notes. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2010. Cantina di Terlano is one of Italy’s top estates, something made all the more remarkable considering it is a cooperative. The entry-level bottlings have been among my favorite house wines for many years. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, they offer much varietal character at reasonable prices. They are also a great introduction for readers who want to learn more about the unique wines of Alto Adige. In addition, the estate produces a set of single-vineyard whites and reds which are reference-point wines for the region. The single-vineyard wines typically spend longer on their lees and are aged partly or wholly in casks. The top-of-the-line selections (in fatter bottles) see a percentage of smaller barrels. The Sauvignon Quarz, Gewurztraminer Lunare and Nova Domus in particular represent some of the most intensely flavored, unique and age-worthy wines to come out of the region.Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (204) 294-4899

Definitely more neutral than other Pinot Biancos from the same vintage, this wine delivers measured aromas of apple, pear, peach and natural rubber that is consistent with the variety’s traditional characteristics. It’s an approachable, everyday wine.——M.L.(12/1/2007)—— 86