Weingut Emmerich Knoll Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Wachau, Austria

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Around 90 liters will be bottled. The 2005 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese smells honeyed, citrusy, and spicy. Honey, vivid orange, and brown spices mingle on a satisfyingly rich, enveloping palate, and while this displays nowhere near the concentration and cut of its Muskateller counterpart, it certainly offers refreshing and honeyed length, and a good deal of poise for a wine so ripe.Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700