Fresh apple and winter pear are liberally laced with both brown spices and a surprisingly generous measure of salt, rendering the Ostertag 2009 Pinot Gris Fronholz mouth-watering in a way I would not have anticipated in this grape, site, and vintage. But it falls a bit short in terms of energy, refinement, or nuance in its undeniably persistent finish. Depending on the culinary context, this might prove useful, and if followed over the next 4-6 years may well display more of the carnal side of its grape, though I suspect it will always remain a bit rustic. Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
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