Cathiard's 2006 Vosne-Romanee displays intriguing carnal and floral notes from nose to finish, but is also informed of ripe red fruits as well as a flatteringly silken texture and lift that reflects his expressed desire to extract very gently and emphasize the delicacy of fruit and mineral refinement he sees as vintage fortes. The finish here is satisfyingly lip-smacking without trying to grip or make a big statement. This should remain delightfully proportional and versatile over the next 4-6 years.
My report in issue 171 was in error – as both Cathiard and de Montille let me know – in reporting that Cathiard's production of wine from this cru would drop dramatically in consequence of his having agreed to compensation for relinquishing his lease on a share of its acreage. In fact, the portion of Malconsorts that Cathiard farmed under that former agreement never informed his domaine bottling, whose production level will thus be uninfluenced by its absence. Sylvain Cathiard said sorting out rot was not a major challenge for him in 2006 (but in 2007, yes) and that at most 10% of fruit was rejected. Unfortunately, he did not offer me the opportunity to taste half of his wines and I was unable to catch up with them subsequently.
A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70
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