Palmina Alisos, Santa Barbara County, USA

帕爾米納阿里瑟干紅葡萄酒

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One of the more eccentric wines in the lineup, the 2009 Alisos Alisos Vineyard is 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot. Part of the Sangiovese is air-dried (Amarone-style), vinified separately, then blended with the other components. Naturally, this style of winemaking introduces a level of sweetness and silkiness that is not present in the rest of the lineup. Personally, I find less textural elegance and finesse than is common in the best Palmina wines. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Interestingly, Steve Clifton takes an entirely different approach with Palmina than he does at Brewer-Clifton. Whereas the Brewer-Clifton wines are much more technical and controlled in their precision, at Palmina, Clifton favors natural yeasts and follows a more hands-off approach. Clifton is equally adept with both styles, something that says a lot about his natural talent. Nebbiolo is one the Palmina specialties. As good as the Palmina Nebbioli can be, my fear is that some of these wines will ultimately prove to have very narrow drinking windows. The Nebbioli clearly need time in barrel for the tannins to soften, but by the time they do, the aromas are often quite forward. Tel. (805) 735-2030, www.palminawines.com