Emmerich Knoll Traminer Smaragd

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An ashen aura as well as peppermint pungency and in general a Muskateller-like audacity characterize the Knoll 2010 Traminer Smaragd, which combines oily richness of texture with the bright, almost Riesling-like brightness that this rare yellow variant of Traminer (established chez Knoll via Salomon) can muster and that the 2010 vintage accentuates. Wafting rose petal and luscious blood orange add allure, though the pungent as well as impressively juicy finish harbors a bit of heat. I would want to monitor this carefully before planning to hold it longer than 4-5 years; that said, it might well shape up to be a serious keeper. “Warmth and wind at the end of October gave Smaragd the extra push, especially for Gruner Veltliner,” notes Emmerich Knoll Senior, and his estate did not begin picking that category until the first week in November. “Up until then, it pretty much counted as settled that we wouldn’t bottle a 2010 Vinothek in either Riesling or Gruner Veltliner, which in fact we did. But I can’t recall when the Smaragd ever had acid levels identical to the Federspiel as happened this year. Not that I’m unhappy about this,” he adds with a laugh. “There have been and will be quite a few vintages in which we would be happy for some of 2010’s acidity.” A portion of the Riesling Federspiel crop was de-acidified as must. Total production was only around half of what Knoll considers normal. None of the Smaragd – collectively, almost unbelievably, representing the heart of one of the finest Knoll collections in memory – was not due to have been bottled until late this summer.Importer: Circo Vino Besenville, IL; tel. (417) 732 4200