Knoll’s 2005 Traminer Smaragd – from the Yellow Traminer – smells alluringly of rose petals and lavender. Characteristically for this grape, the wine is oily in texture and rich in the mouth, yet possessed of frisky acidity. A mouthful of rose petals, lavender, and black pepper leaves a clear, fine, subtly floral and herbal finish that glides smoothly in a manner quite unlike that of a typical Gewurz-traminer. The pickers left any grapes that were significantly touched by botrytis to hang and then returned to them at the end of the harvest to achieve nobly sweet results. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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