The 1997 Zinfandel Hayne Vineyard is unquestionably a remarkable wine. However, it will be very backward and potentially long-lived. It was only slightly evolved when I tasted it in September, displaying an opaque saturated, thick-looking purple color, and unevolved but promising notes of black raspberry liqueur intermixed with minerals, spice, and cherry fruit. Massive yet phenomenally rich, admirably pure, and representing the essence of this varietal, this wine requires 12-18 months of bottle age; it should drink well for 10-15 years. An extraordinary Zinfandel, with 17.2% alcohol. Anticipated maturity: 1999-2010.
As I have stated many times in the past, Turley Cellars' offerings have become the reference point for Zinfandel, as they are the most complex, concentrated, hedonistic wines ever produced from this varietal. Critics claim the alcohol levels are too high, but proprietor Larry Turley and his winemaker, Ehren Jordan, would argue that the alcohol levels are high only because they harvested fully ripe fruit. Turley and Jordan have also taken the art of wine making to a higher playing field. At the same time, they have resurrected a bevy of old head-pruned Zinfandel vineyards that had largely been ignored, or had their crops sold off to be unceremoniously blended into white Zinfandel. Turley Cellars' goal is to produce 10,000 cases of unfiltered, hand-crafted Zinfandel. As for the 1997 Zinfandels, Larry Turley feels they "are the best wines we have yet made." The wines are amazingly good, and as the following tasting notes suggest, readers could buy blind here and always end up with a juicy, complex, mouth filling Zinfandel.
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