Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Mulheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Auslese, Mosel, Germany

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The combination of elevation and wind exposure with south-facing inclination in Richter’s Johannisberg vineyard (now part of the Sonnenlay) no doubt helps lend his 2008 Muhlheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Auslese its combination of ripe pit fruit and citrus with spine and energy. Luscious pink grapefruit, blood orange, and white peach are tinged with brown spices, salt, and stone in a finish of impressive length and vigor. This Riesling of relatively spare texture and impeccable sugar-acid balance is no doubt a candidate for a quarter century’s cellaring. “We had the November weather in October, and the lovely October weather in November,” says Dirk Richter of 2008, thereby essentially explaining his harvest strategy. He ameliorated acidity through skin contact; nature helped by precipitating tartrates; and nonetheless, some wines were de-acidified already as must. Richter is pleased to characterize the results as “classic Mosel Rieslings,” and since Richter spends a great deal of time promoting his wines in the U.S. I am happy to be able to concur in that description, even if some of his 2008s are only modestly successful. Richter admits that this collection is likely at least for the short term to be overshadowed by those on either side of it, but speculates that the 2008s will have their day if given time.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland,?OH; tel. (216) 861-6800