Max Ferd. Richter Wiesser Burgunder Trocken

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As in previous years, Richter’s 2008 Weisser Burgunder trocken nicely displays the unique virtues of the under-appreciated (in fact, as a distinct grape variety little-known) Pinot Blanc. Fresh apple, apple blossom, and lime in the nose could come from a Riesling, and that this is buoyant and refreshing yet subtly creamy might seem unexceptional in light of the vintage’s character. But the extent of creaminess – allied to notes of toasted hazelnut – is specific to this grape. A lusciously fruity finish tinged with apple pip, wet stone, and toast reels you back for the next sip – and that’s not factoring-in the synergies this will show with cuisine over the next several years. What’s more, this represents an outstanding value. These 8 year old vines, incidentally, are in the breezy Elisenberg, and I begin to believe that the Pinot Blanc from here will gain more and more of the floral, finesseful personality associated with Richter’s distinctive Rieslings from that site. “We had the November weather in October, and the lovely October weather in November,” says Dirk Richter of 2008, thereby essentially explaining his harvest strategy. He ameliorated acidity through skin contact; nature helped by precipitating tartrates; and nonetheless, some wines were de-acidified already as must. Richter is pleased to characterize the results as “classic Mosel Rieslings,” and since Richter spends a great deal of time promoting his wines in the U.S. I am happy to be able to concur in that description, even if some of his 2008s are only modestly successful. Richter admits that this collection is likely at least for the short term to be overshadowed by those on either side of it, but speculates that the 2008s will have their day if given time.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland,?OH; tel. (216) 861-6800