Rudi Pichler Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Kollmutz, Wachau, Austria

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Pichler’s 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Kollmutz features green bean, parsnip, and celery root in the nose and on a voluminous yet heat-free palate. An overt wet stone character underlying this wine’s vegetable personality makes for a slightly austere though impressively persistent finish, and there is marginally less sheer juiciness or complexity today than in the ostensibly lesser, generic Smaragd bottling. Time may tell a different story and there is not reason to expect this wine to flag for at least 5-7 years. Pichler’s 2007s differ very little in gross chemistry from his 2006s – including the high alcohol of several Gruner Veltliner – yet they have dramatically different personalities. Pichler compares them with his 1997s, and perhaps time in bottle will more clearly bear out that high praise. Rudi Pichler is a great believer in watchfully letting nature take its course and although some of his 2007s came in with pH levels many growers would consider alarmingly high he gave no thought to adjusting them, and the finished wines bear him out, displaying the vivacity and freshness typical of 2007.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700