Impressive, delicious, a tremendous wine in every respect. It’s powerfully smoky, with spiced oak everywhere, rich in buttered toast and vanilla, but such pretty fruit underneath, it’s easily able to support it. Mangoes, pineapples, peaches, ripe Bosc pears, loads of dusty spices and a rich, full creamy texture. ——S.H.(8/1/2005)—— 94