Earthy and savory, with scorched soil on top of dark cherry and dried blackberry, the 2016 Torgiano Rosso Riserva Rubesco Vigna Monticchio is streamlined, focused and tight compared to the open-knit 2015 vintage that I tasted at the same time. Showing faint mineral tones, these vines planted among tobacco fields (for making Toscano cigars) have a distinctive smoky or savory quality. This is an Umbrian classic of some 35,000 bottles produced annually.
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