The 2005 Capo Martino is a slender version of this wine. Perfumed aromatics lead to an expressive core of ripe fruit as this medium-bodied white opens up in the glass. Today the oak is especially prominent, and I am not sure the wine possesses enough plumpness to provide balance. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2013.Silvio Jermann has much more competition from his neighbors these days. One can’t help noticing that Jermann is increasingly being left behind by the area’s new generation of ambitious, quality-minded producers, something that was brought home to me quite clearly when I visited the region’s top estates a few months ago. Ironically for a producer famous for his whites, it is actually the reds that are now among the estate’s most interesting wines.Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900
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